Easter brings back special memories to me, far beyond the excitement of buying a new dress, savoring the delicious chicken which my mom used to prepare, or getting gifts from aunts and uncles. In fact, it is the special ceremonies that take place in Jerusalem, in particular. That was really a unique feeling of joy.
For the Palestinian Christians in Jerusalem who follow the Eastern calendar, “Easter” is more than just a religious feast. It is a cherished folkloric tradition that passes from one generation to the other.
Rituals usually start at the beginning of spring. Sometimes in March, while other times in April or early May. Forty days before Easter Day, Christians start fasting. During this period, they abstain from eating anything of animal origin. Easter Day, which is always on a Sunday, is also known as “Resurrection Sunday”.
During the 40 days of fasting, members of the “Eastern” Christian communities gather for a weekly evening Friday prayer held in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The mass is known as the “Mass of Praise”. The service features the chanting of religious hymns known as “Madayeh” in Arabic.
The last Friday just before “Easter Sunday” is known as “Good Friday”, or “Friday of Sorrows”, commemorating the crucifixion, death, and burial of Jesus Christ at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The “Sunday” before “Easter Sunday” is known as “Palm Sunday”.
Palm Sunday celebrations in the courtyard of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem
The “Palm Sunday” procession, which meanders through the streets, alleys, and neighborhoods of the Old City of Jerusalem and its surrounding walls, has been a long-standing tradition for decades. The “Saturday” just before “Easter Sunday”, is known as “Holy Saturday” or “Saturday of Light”, signifies the end of the forty-day fasting period.
The “Holy Saturday” celebrations inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
On this day, and before the Israeli occupation imposed a siege around Jerusalem in the year 2000 onwards, crowds of Palestinian Christians and non-Christians used to come from cities and towns across Palestine, in addition to pilgrims from abroad, to the old city of Jerusalem. They would all gather under the “Holy Sepulchre” dome and in the church’s courtyard in the early dawn hours.
A traditional Easter pastry with a red egg at its center, found in the bakeries of Jerusalem’s Old City during the Easter season
This day carries deep spiritual significance as Christians believe that at 1:00 PM, a “divine light” radiates from the tomb of Jesus Christ, located in the center of the “Holy Sepulchre”.
Starting From the early hours of the morning, worshippers gather, holding candles in preparation for this sacred moment. As the clock strikes one, the huge bells of the “Holy Sepulchre”, along with those of other churches in Jerusalem, start ringing loudly to mark the beginning of the celebrations. The crowds inside the church hold lit candles in their hands at that moment and start to make their way outside into the streets. The procession continues in the narrow alleys of the “Christian Quarter”. Scouts and patriarchs, bishops, priests, deacons, and elders march in the front. This moment of shared faith extends beyond Jerusalem’s walls, as worshippers carry the “Holy Light” to cities across Palestine, particularly Bethlehem in the south and Ramallah in the north, as well as to Arab and international capitals, in order “to spread the holy light of Jerusalem to the world symbolically”.
Two elderly women, one Cypriot and one Greek, light candles during the “Holy Saturday” celebrations in 1936
The Holy Saturday procession is not only a religious occasion, but also is a Palestinian folk-cultural tradition, where other participants can join and take part in chanting popular songs and national anthems. 
Holy Saturday Celebrations in Jerusalem
Easter celebrations were somehow a lively tradition up until the mid-1990s. However, as the Israeli occupation authorities gradually tightened their siege on Jerusalem at the end of the decade, the once-thriving observances began to diminish. Most of the Palestinians living in surrounding towns and villages of Jerusalem are not permitted to enter the holy city for prayers. This applies to Christians, as well as to Moslems, too. Easter festivities are not anymore as they used to be. Yet, despite these obstacles, the people of Jerusalem remain determined to keep the Easter traditions alive as much as they can, seeing such ceremonies as an essential part of the city’s rich history, authenticity, and Arab identity.
Published on April 1, 2021
